A Beginner's Guide To The Backcountry

  Deep powder riding is the most sought after experience for snowboarders and skiers but many people really never get a chance to do it; mostly due to a lack of information on how to start and where to go.  Hoping for a good snowfall at a resort will not give you this opportunity even if you're lucky enough to have your schedule and mother nature's coincide.  Resort trails get tracked out quickly and even ten inches of new snow on a resort trail is merely new snow on a packed, compressed surface.  It'll make for wonderful, soft conditions of course but essentially you are still riding/skiing on a solid surface.  The blissful sensation of true powder comes from literally floating in snow so deep that you never come close to touching anything solid.  Indeed the most tiring thing about falling in powder isn't the fall but attempting to get up as you literally have nothing to push against to leverage yourself up, often only going deeper the more you try.  I actually had a panic moment this past season where I was almost chest deep and didn't know what to do - a deep breath and digging out my board to unstrap solved that problem although getting back on the board was a whole different problem to be solved (imagine treading water then trying to stand up on a small raft floating in front of you).  That's another nice thing about the backcountry, every day is some kind of lesson.

  So where to start?  A resort is out, unless you go off trail which in most places in the US will get your lift pass taken in a hurry.  Some resorts overseas are much more lenient in this regard (yes, we love those places) but generally speaking it isn't happening here in the States.  Some resorts have T-bar accessed or foot accessed bowls but the crowd factor gets those tracked out by 10am.  The other concern of course is safety; the huge accumulations of snow that provide true powder experiences can also be unstable and deadly in the form of avalanches and heavy slough.  The good news is that many companies offer backcountry tours for about the same price as a lift ticket, or backcountry vacations that cost about the same as a week in a commercial resort and give a much, much better snow sports experience.

  The first thing to do is learn to ride powder.  Getting into fantastic, waist deep conditions doesn't do a whole lot of good when you can't stay upright.  Many resorts will offer powder lessons and give their instructors permission to take students to the off-piste areas where real, deep pow can be found.  Make no mistake, it is a different skill set; almost the opposite of what most people learn on a snowboard.  Weight is more to the back than to the front, using your edges will usually result in a quick flop, and you need to be prepared for steepness on the level of a black diamond or double black diamond - which can be very intimidating when your path is littered with trees every few feet.

  You'll also need the proper equipment to ride/ski terrain like that.  A powder specific board or pair of skis is virtually a necessity, unless you want to work much harder than necessary and get tired much more quickly.  Generally speaking you'll go longer than what you're used to.  Remember, you're not on a solid surface so the extra length (and width) will help the board/skis in planing through the powder much like the hull of a boat does in water and give more stability so that the board or skis aren't pitching and rolling as you go.

  Once you're comfortable, you'll be itching for more; truly, nothing compares to it.  Search for companies giving backcountry tours, paying special attention to their emphasis on safety and the experience and qualifications of their guides.  You can go the very expensive route and do a helicopter accessed tour, scale down the cost to a snow cat accessed tour, or go a much more cost effective tour (and much more satisfying in its' way) involving snowshoeing or skinning.  Snowshoeing is nice if you have a one piece board (as opposed to a splitboard) and want to strap that to your backpack to ride; the downside being that snowshoeing is much more physically strenuous than skinning.  Skinning is merely two pieces of material that adhere to the bottom of your skis or splitboard (in skinning mode of course) that give you traction and let you travel on top of the powder itself.  It is much less tiring and you may get to enjoy the experience of traveling up the mountain a bit more; and with a good guide the journey up is just as fulfilling and interesting as the ride down.  Every tour should be an education in safely navigating the terrain, no matter what skill or experience level you're at.

  Notice that none of those options involves going alone or with a group of your buddies with no guide.  Without proper education at no point should anyone enter the backcountry without a professional guide who can competently evaluate the terrain and mitigate the inherent danger of being there.

  When it all comes together you may need the smile surgically removed from your face.  It really is that good and most of my interest in resorts now is what kind of off piste access is offered.  Get the right equipment, learn how ride/ski powder, then find a good professional organization to guide you to the best experiences you can have in the mountains; you'll never look a resort trail the same way again.

 

 

Mountain Rider's Alliance Promotional Video

ROXY PODCAST: How To Ride Powder with TORAH BRIGHT!

She's so funny :)

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Eurotic Trailer - Coming this Fall

Product Review: Burton Malavita Restricted Binding

Photo courtesy of Burton.com

  The Burton Malavita Restricted is the version of the Malavita EST designed to be mounted on any board as opposed to those designed specifically for the Burton Infinite Channel System (the EST line).  The baseplate flips up to enable insertion of any one of three plastic disc adapters (standard 4 hole, 2 hole channel, and Burton 3D system).  Very simple and easy to use I switched the bindings between my Salomon Ace with a standard 4 hole mounting deck and my Burton Barracuda with the Burton Infinite Channel often.

  Available only in black the distinctive feature of the Restricted model is the asymmetrical winged high back for extra lateral leverage and Burton's Heel Hammock, a rubbery material that wraps around the heel of the boot that does a great job of locking your heel in place and reducing the need to make the straps extra tight.  The high back is also adjustable laterally to give it perfect alignment with the angle you set the binding to.

  The build quality is excellent, light yet sturdy with virtually no plastic to be found.  The front of the footbed is adjustable as well for different foot sizes, made with gel cushioning under the heel for impact absorption.  The same quality extends to the oversize, asymmetrical strap and the toe cup which features a similar material to the Heel Hammock on the inside to grip the toe of your boot.  The buckles are chrome-plated aluminum and lightweight polycarbonate; very light yet strong.

Photo courtesy of Burton.com

  High back lean adjustment is very simple via Burton's MicroFlad system, a horizontal knob built right into the one-piece back of the binding allowing for micro adjustment to personalize your stance.  

  In practical use the Malavita Restricted was incredibly comfortable and easy to adjust in a myriad of ways to suit my taste.  I was able to strap in snug and secure without the need to tighten the straps much at all, a testament to the effectiveness of the Heel Hammock.  The extra leverage provided by the winged high back was much appreciated in icy East Coast conditions.  Certain products just have a feel to them of quality and sturdiness and the Malavita is definitely one of them.  Adjusting any part of the binding on the fly quite simple as I broke them in and got used to them between two different boards.  The only plastic was in the disc adapters which were easy to swap out and mount (note: the Burton Channel EST specific bindings will have no mounting disc providing an even lighter, thinner footbed).

Photo courtesy of Burton.com

This is a higher end binding, retailing at around $289.99 but the build quality and nearly infinite adjustability easily justifies the price.  A binding that should last for years in a comfortable, well made package.  Recommended.

Nozawa Onsen slide show

Hakuba slide show

Product Review: Burton Barracuda

Photo courtesy of Burton.com

  After my first experiences in deep pow I knew I needed a board suited to riding those conditions, but I also wanted something that would perform well  on groomed resort trails.  I basically wanted the best of both worlds and found it in the Burton Barracuda.

  The board ranges in size from 149cm to 169cm, giving plenty of flexibility in length for both male and female riders; I purchased the 161cm.  Even for you shorter ladies, if 149cm sounds long it isn't for the purpose of deep powder backcountry riding.  My all mountain board, the Salomon Ace, is a 156cm (I'm 5'7") I found to be a bit squirrelly in powder even with the bindings set all the way back.  With the Salomon I found myself working harder and tiring more quickly than I ultimately did on the Burton Barracuda.  I was initially hesitant about going with the 161cm but after reassurance from a friend who is a product tester for Burton I went for it and that turned out to be a great decision; if in doubt I recommend going a bit longer than you're comfortable for this kind of riding.

  When riding deep pow speed and steepness are your friend.  The Burton Barracuda acquitted itself wonderfully well in these conditions.  The extra length of the board proved to stabilize and balance it both dropping in and at high speed; this was on slopes in the mid to high 30 degree range.  The natural set-back of the bindings (Burton Malavita Restricted in my case) give the board a good long nose to plow through powder while allowing you to keep your balance relatively centered as opposed to leaning back or putting an inordinate amount of weight on your back foot.  This results in much less fatigue than riding a shorter all-mountain board in powder.

Photo by Bill Glude

  Another huge factor in the fantastic feel and effortless slashing of the Barracuda is Burton's S-Rocker shape, found on only three Burton models; the Barracuda, the Fish (a pow-centric swallowtail design), and the Freebird (the Freebird being Burton's sole splitboard offering).  In a nutshell the shape is rockered from the nose of the board to under the front foot, then cambered between the feet.  A quick 30 second visual aid of the S-Rocker design can be seen here.  Early in the season I used the Barracuda extensively on the East Coast of the United States, curious as to how it would ride on hard pack groomers which is where I may have been most surprised.  When transferring weight to the front foot and making turns on groomed trails the rocker flattens out, giving very good effective edge and making carving a blast.  This is also helped by the Barracuda being quite light and flexible, much more so than my 156cm Salomon.  Then in February I get the board waist deep in Japanese pow and it really comes into its' own.  Weight centered on the board causes the camber to flatten out, effortlessly pushing up the nose to keep it driving through the powder (and if you've ever stabbed the nose of your board into deep snow you know the head-over-heels crash that follows).  The end result is an incredibly balanced, responsive, dynamic feel that makes you want to come back to it again and again.  Riding pow on the Barracuda is hands down the best experience I've ever had on a snowboard; the fact that it can be an all-mountain ride is a huge bonus.

  The Barracuda features Burton's updated channel system for their bindings.  I had purchased the Burton Malavita Restricted bindings which were not specific to the Burton Infinite Channel system as I wanted to be able to use them on my Salomon if needed; a special adapter for the channel system came with these bindings and is available separately from Burton in the form of a two hole disc to replace the standard 4 hole one.  The channel system is comprised of two long grooves for each binding with them being screwed into the channel with only two screws through the baseplate.  The channel specific Burton EST bindings are mounted through brackets on either side of the binding, resulting in much less material (and no plastic) in the baseplate giving better dampening and feel.  Without being restricted to a pre-set group of mounting holes the rider is free to place the bindings anywhere along the channel.  My only caveat with the disc adapter is to be sure that they are screwed in tightly.  I had a few instances of the bindings being loose but that may well have been due to my lack of experience in mounting them as I switched them between my two boards several times (always carry a pocket tool kit anyway).  Once I had that aspect dialed in after my first few switches it was no longer a problem.

  Visually the Burton Barracuda is super clean and sharp looking, coming only in white with a simple graphic on the nose and the Barracuda name in the center along with the size.  The bottom of the board features a very cool totem-like graphic; quite unique and the board certainly stands out.


    If you are looking for a ride that absolutely rips in pow but behaves well when you're on-piste it's hard to top the Barracuda.  A much more well rounded successor to the Malolo, the Barracuda is easy to manage in groomed, packed conditions and is simply exhilarating in deep snow.  The Channel System gives virtually unlimited flexibility in binding placement, allowing a truly personalized stance.  Retailing at $499.99 it is worth every penny.  Highly recommended.

Nozawa trip vid alpha build

My Journey Through Nagano. Nozawa Onsen and Hakuba February 3-20, 2012

  On the eve of my trip I couldn’t be more excited.  This was going to be my second snowboarding trip to Japan in two years; my ability level was much higher, my preparedness better, and I was much more comfortable with the whole experience as last year was my first trip overseas to anywhere.

It certainly didn’t hurt that while North America was floundering through one of the most mild winters on record Japan was on the flip side of that and having a season for the ages.  By mid January most resorts were well over their season averages having seen thirty plus feet of snow already.  When the locals are making noise about ‘too much snow’ you know it’s going to be good.

  I’ve often gotten quizzical looks when I’ve mentioned Japan for snowboarding.  I think it’s safe to say most people don’t consider it a snow destination when in fact it’s one of the snowiest regions in the world.  There’s also something special about the quality of snow Japan receives.  Super dry, amazingly light powder is the order of the day and I’ve found that most people who experience it come back for more time and time again.   Indeed on this trip I spoke to many instructors and dedicated skiers and snowboarders who’ve traveled extensively and they all consistently said Japan is the best they’ve had for their favorite sport.  A gentleman who’s been guiding probably as long as I’ve been alive described Hakuba as ‘Alaskan mountains and Japanese snow’ and that’s why he structures his schedule so that his winters are spent in Japan and the rest of the year in his home state of Alaska.  True to its’ reputation the winds from Siberia delivered constant snow on this trip; over 8 feet in sixteen days.

  The snow is just one of the reasons that a trip to Japan is an amazing experience.  In a culture based strongly on etiquette and politeness I’ve found people there to be wonderful to be around and interact with.  The aforementioned qualities permeate every experience and can be in stark contrast to one’s everyday life in the very rushed, loud and brash East coast of the United States.  Japan is also amazingly clean, even in urban areas.  Driving along a highway or walking through a city you’ll be hard pressed to find even a cigarette butt in the road; a reflection of the etiquette and sense of community this country has.  Add to that absolutely delicious, consistently healthy and fresh food everywhere you go.  It really is a hard combination to beat.

  My first stop (after a 15 hour plane ride and a 5 ½ hour bus ride) was my only destination from last year, Nozawa Onsen in the northern part of Nagano.  I had spent ten days there last year and the experience was incredible and I was very much looking forward to another stay.

    Nozawa Onsen is a village located in a valley at the base of Mt. Kenashi-yama.  It’s quite traditional and while having many modern amenities it strongly retains its’ heritage in contrast to some of the westernized, commercial resorts in both Nagano and the northern island of Hokkaido.  If I recall correctly there is actually legislation in the town tightly controlling, and generally rejecting, outside development in an effort to maintain the character and traditions of the village.  The village is named for the many onsens, natural hot springs, that are found throughout the town. It’s a relatively quiet place with a subdued après scene although there are a few bars and several excellent restaurants.  Having seen more of the country this year and another resort in Nagano I think I can safely say that Nozawa Onsen is a truly unique experience.

  The mountain itself has a 1650 meter altitude and gets plenty of snow.  I hear there are days when conditions can get wild but in about eighteen days on that mountain over two seasons I’ve only seen one day that was stormy.  Generally speaking (and this is purely my amateur observation) the horseshoe shape of the mountain range tends to buffet away the wind while the snow clouds stall above the mountain and valley and dump heaps of snow.  I can honestly say I’ve never had a cold, windy day on the mountain; I’ve overdressed several times expecting this to be the day I’m cold but it never seems to happen.  I’ve seen the snow coming down thick and fast, making visibility a pipe dream but never sideways.  Most days were mild and temperate although this year I only saw the sun on about 2 days.  I’ll trade that every time for all the snow we got.

  The layout of the resort is a bit strange and can be daunting to those unfamiliar with it.  My first time there I wound up several times on long, flat traverses going nowhere fast.  A little exploring and experience however reveals some amazing runs and plenty of sidecountry/off-piste powder stashes.  People go off the back of the mountain as well, a great descent that leads right back around to the south end of the resort.  I’ll stop and emphasize here the dangers of off-piste experiences.  Never go alone and without proper equipment and training.  The good news is that there are plenty of easy to navigate, stable areas on the resort itself hidden for those who know where to look – again, take all precautions at all times.

  My stay in Nozawa Onsen was at Villa Nozawa for the second year in a row.  Spacious, clean, well staffed and professionally run.  I can’t recommend it highly enough; if you make the trip stay there or at one of the owners’ three other locations in town, another lodge and two cottages are available.  Visit www.NozawaHolidays.com for more info; I’ll be back there again next year.

  After ten days of riding and good times I headed southwest to Hakuba, my first visit there.  It was an easy bus ride of about two hours to Hakuba Station and I was greeted by a very different, and equally fun, experience.

  Whereas Nozawa Onsen is a very compact village Hakuba is much more like a suburb, spread out over a very large area.  The Hakuba valley is huge, hosting no less than seven different resorts to ride with another four just a short shuttle ride to the north.  My time riding was spent at Happo One (oh-nay) andHakuba 47 plus a day of backcountry hiking and riding at one of the northward areas called Norikura.

  If you’re more comfortable in a western style resort then Hakuba will fit the bill.  Very commercial with plenty of advertising literature and a very western/western European look to most of the valley from what I saw, albeit with a Japanese flavor.  There is a line of shuttle buses that continually loop the valley starting in the early evening for a modest 200 yen so getting around to different areas is quite easy and quick.  Food is available for a wide variety of palettes, from soba to hamburgers to pizza.  My stay was in a part of the valley called Echoland with many good restaurants and lively après spots.

  The terrain at the two commercial mountains I rode was steep, varied and had plenty of snow due to the consistent falls we had.  I didn’t know the ins and outs but I was able to poach plenty of powder stashes on the main face.  I didn’t go off-piste at these two resorts as I was led to understand that the ski patrol was quite strict there and losing my lift pass wasn’t something I wanted to happen.  From what I hear the northern resorts do open their backcountry gates with the usual onus and risk placed upon those who venture into that territory.

  Mid-week I took a day off and went southwest to Matsumoto City and Matsumoto Castle, the oldest castle of its’ type in Japan.  The city was a very cool little urban area, incredibly clean as I mentioned earlier, with the castle on the outskirts.  The castle was beautiful and fascinating both inside and out; be prepared to walk staircases as steep as ladders however.  Simply standing outside in the exquisitely sculpted grounds watching hawks land on the summit of the castle is an exercise in serenity.  Gorgeous overall and highly recommended.  I should also mention that on the walk to the castle I lost a piece of my tripod and found politely placed on a station on the sidewalk feet from where it must have fallen hours before.

  My last day riding was courtesy of Evergreen Outdoor Center located in the Wadano and Happo bases in Hakuba.  Evergreen has been operating since about 2000 in Nagano as has played an influential role in backcountry access and both winter and summer tours and education in Nagano.  They offer everything from avalanche training to kids’ lessons.  I was able to book a backcountry tour that was up in the air since I needed at least one other person but the staff at Evergreen had taken my name down and emailed me when someone else signed up for one of my requested days.

  We met at the Wadano base location the evening before to assess our gear and fill out paperwork and met our guide for the next day, a gentleman named Bill Glude who has been doing guiding and avalanche training out of Alaska and Japan for many years as well as many other places.

Photo by Bill Glude

  The next day we met in the early morning, spent some time getting familiar with transceiver, probe and shovel use then hopped in a van to the Norikura area.  This was followed by about two hours of snowshoeing up a peak and a single wonderful run down it (even though I struggled at times as this was my first time on terrain both that steep and that deep).  Bill was incredibly knowledgeable, encouraging and helpful and made the day as much of an education as a recreational lark which, in my opinion, is how it should be when it comes to backcountry riding.  It was an amazing day in waist deep snow and Bill and everyone at Evergreen Outdoor Center was thoroughly professional and pleasant.  If you come to Hakuba check them out for an experience you won’t forget.

  A day later I was on the plane back home and I am already missing this beautiful, wonderful country that I’ve come to love over the last two years.  Many people say it’s hard to explain to someone who hasn’t been there and I find that to be true; all I can say is that if you love to ride or ski and can make the trip happen you definitely should.  It’s not as expensive as it may seem and the experience is something you’ll never forget.  Take the time to learn some of the language, etiquette and customs and your trip will be much easier and you’ll find that the locals greatly appreciate the attempt, even if you fumble it badly.  For great snow, great people and great food Japan is hard to beat; put it on your list and make it happen, you won’t regret it.  And if you need someone to ride with, look me up.

 

 

A QUICK LOOK AT THIS WINTER

Looks like it should be a good one for the North Western and North Eastern United States, plus cooler temperatures in Japan which combined with their precipitation should be epic.  Here's hoping, THINK SNOW!  Click the title or pic to see the NASA assessment of the effects of La Nina.

The weekends are always interesting :)

Product Review: Salomon Ace snowboard

The Salomon Ace is my first board, the one I've learned on.  I've been fortunate (?) enough to really beat on it over the last two seasons and grow into it as an intermediate rider.

I bought it a bit longer than it needed to be which may have made the learning curve a but steeper but I love it now as the length makes it easy to pick up speed to get through deep pow.

I've ridden it on all kinds of terrain at this point; thigh deep powder, early morning crud, ice and hard pack and soft spring snow.  The board is wonderfully diverse giving plenty of pop and flex in powder with great stability on hard surfaces.  Bumps and drops are equally well dampered.  The rubber pads and Aspen light core provide excellent shock absorbtion so if you have sensitive knees don't worry.

Did I mention I beat on it?  After many falls and ill advised routes the board has held up exceptionally well - it has the expected dings and chips from environmental hazards but the integrity of the material is very satisfactory.

At the midrange of $200-$300 the Salomon Ace is a superb value and I highly recommend it.

Specs:
Flex Rating 3/5
Directional Twin shape
Quadratic Sidecut
Rubber Pads
Aspen Light Core
BA Medium Density Glass
Extruded Base
Standard Stone Grind
Standard camber profile

Review of Nozawa Onsen and Villa Nozawa; Nagano, Japan

Nozawa Onsen is a wonderful village about 2 hours or so north of Nagano. With a history dating back over a thousand years Nozawa is one of Japan's oldest winter resort areas.

Dating back to the Edo period and named for the many hot springs found around the village, skiing was introduced to Nozawa Onsen around 1911. Renowned for it's wonderful snow conditions Nozawa Onsen averages around 10 meters of snow each season and hosted the biathalon in the 1998 Winter Olympics in Nagano; the town itself has produced several Olympic skiers and will be celebrating the centennial of its' snow sport history in this 2011/12 season.

Access from Tokyo is quite easy via the Shinkansen (bullet train) or a shuttle service that runs about $130/per person each way. The shuttle is a longer trip, about five hours compared to about 3.5 with the bullet train/bus combo but turned out to be quite simple and convenient with an advance booking via Chuo Taxi. Additional travel info can be found here.

Villa Nozawa

This was my lodge for the entirety of my stay aside from some brief (inebriated) hours in a lodge called Mitsubishi Maya. Now I should state that on a snowboarding trip I am not looking for a 5 star luxury hotel; I am looking for a comfortable value where I can put my focus on the riding. Fortunately, Villa Nozawa is all that and more. I purchased their 'Live Like A Local' package which included a 10 night stay, 9 days of lift tickets and breakfast every morning. A last minute change to my plans to take a day off to see the snow monkeys at a preserve park in Nagano was handled with no problem and I was given credit for the day on the mountain back to my bill - I should note that this change was made the first morning of arrival before my lift pass was purchased from the mountain by the lodge. I received an 8 day pass that could by used any day of my stay with one day punched on the pass in exchange for a lift ticket. The monkey park tour is also handled by the villa staff and was a breeze to schedule.

The Villa itself is a four story building with virtually all the rooms providing a view overlooking the breathtaking valley. Each floor has a co-joined mens' and womens' bathroom seperated by a common sink area. Mens' and womens' shower facilities are downstairs although oftentimes people choose to hit up the local onsen for cleaning and relaxing after a day riding/skiing. The rooms are beautiful in their simplicity; tatami floors and futons and a small balcony area. Downstairs is a large common area for breakfast and socializing, two vending machines and a small room with TV, DVD player and other games and entertainment. The common room also has water, coffee and tea available all day. Unlimited Wi-Fi is also available for a nominal fee (about $10 I recall).

If you don't speak Japanese then the English speaking staff is a blessing. The owner Mark and all of his staff are wonderfully helpful and accommodating; it seemed like most of the guests were Australian so there was plenty of conversation to be had. The Villa has a very dormitory, community like feel to it; great for families and meeting new people happens naturally thru breakfast in the common area and seeing each other quite a bit in the cozy confines of the building.

Villa Nozawa also features a drying room downstairs for all your gear and clothing and an equipment rental center.

My stay at Villa Nozawa could not have been better. The owner, Mark, also has three other locations in town Lodge Nagano, Nozawa House, and Nozawa Cottage. Although I have not stayed there I would not hesitate to recommend any of Mark's properties if my stay at Villa Nozawa is any indication.

Now on to the town itself which is nothing short of magical. While certainly modern in many ways the heritage of the 1400 year old village is everywhere to been seen and felt. Some of the shrines and onsens are as old as the town itself while the buildings stand with odd angles, closely built and the streets wind, rise and fall due to the hilly layout. Cash is a must as I didn't see any places that accepted credit cards although there is an ATM in town at the post office - just check with your bank before you go.

And the onsens, oh the onsens. Blissful after a long day there are several free and pay-per-use onsens throughout the town with one conveniently located behind Villa Nozawa. An onsen is basically a bath full of mineral rich, volcanically heated water. One doesn't actually wash in the onsen, that is done prior to entering. An important note or two: there is a definitive etiquette for onsen use; be sure to know it before venturing in. Be ready for HOT water and being naked with other people. You'll come out feeling like a million dollars, ready for another day of shredding Mt. Kenashi - just bundle up for the walk back.

Restaurants are plentiful, varied and modestly priced.  Everything from a place where the menu was essentially two things - yakitori and sake, to a luxury restaurant that is reservation only.  I managed to hit a different place for dinner every night with plenty of options to spare.  Standouts were an amazing okonomiyaki place (a kind of Japanese vegetable pancake) and some of the best chirashi sushi I've ever had.  If you need an Italian fix a place called Pasta Di Pasta right off the main street was excellent.  I grabbed lunch at one of the 31 restaurants on the mountain every day including tantanmen, pasta, pizza, and soba.  A Nozawa specialty called nozawana, a kind of pickled veggie, are a part of many meals and absolutely delicious.  The Nagano region is also famous for their apples and for good reason; something about the nutrient rich volcanic soil produces fantastic fruit and vegetables.  Definitely going to try to bring some apples back on my next trip in February.  Nightlife is far from rowdy but there are several quaint bars with plenty of character (and karaoke) to be found.  The Stay Bar on the main street was my favorite - just watch it if you're offered a Flying Aaron, it'll hurt you in the morning.

 The mountain itself is wonderfully varied, although the purported 30% beginner, 40% intermediate, 30% expert is a bit of misnomer.  The beginner trails are generally quite flat and the intermediate is much closer to expert - you'll also see intermediate trails leading right into expert trails with no other option.  The plus side of this is when the pow drops even the steepest trails are manageable and chances are you'll see plenty of it if you go during the peak Jan/Feb time frame.  Add to that very loose rules on off-piste exploration and it's a dream come true.  Some friends and I took a run off the back, non resort side and it was just amazing.  Just be careful, don't go alone, and know your safety precautions as the ski patrol doesn't go back there.  My only real gripe would be that the layout is somewhat unintuitive; the mountain range is actually a horseshoe shape and that does not come through on the trail maps so the first few days I found myself lost several times until I got my bearings.  After that I was getting lost on purpose, finding powder stashes between trails and generally having the time of my life.

Overall Nozawa Onsen is one of the most unique places on the globe.  I'll be returning in February and staying again at Villa Nozawa.  I highly recommend a visit - a trip you'll never forget.

Check out some videos from the trip here.

WINTER FORECAST

Here's the first word on this upcoming winter,
and the word is good:


http://unofficialnetworks.com/winter-weather-forecast-20112012-extreme-winter-parts-31096/