My Journey Through Nagano. Nozawa Onsen and Hakuba February 3-20, 2012

  On the eve of my trip I couldn’t be more excited.  This was going to be my second snowboarding trip to Japan in two years; my ability level was much higher, my preparedness better, and I was much more comfortable with the whole experience as last year was my first trip overseas to anywhere.

It certainly didn’t hurt that while North America was floundering through one of the most mild winters on record Japan was on the flip side of that and having a season for the ages.  By mid January most resorts were well over their season averages having seen thirty plus feet of snow already.  When the locals are making noise about ‘too much snow’ you know it’s going to be good.

  I’ve often gotten quizzical looks when I’ve mentioned Japan for snowboarding.  I think it’s safe to say most people don’t consider it a snow destination when in fact it’s one of the snowiest regions in the world.  There’s also something special about the quality of snow Japan receives.  Super dry, amazingly light powder is the order of the day and I’ve found that most people who experience it come back for more time and time again.   Indeed on this trip I spoke to many instructors and dedicated skiers and snowboarders who’ve traveled extensively and they all consistently said Japan is the best they’ve had for their favorite sport.  A gentleman who’s been guiding probably as long as I’ve been alive described Hakuba as ‘Alaskan mountains and Japanese snow’ and that’s why he structures his schedule so that his winters are spent in Japan and the rest of the year in his home state of Alaska.  True to its’ reputation the winds from Siberia delivered constant snow on this trip; over 8 feet in sixteen days.

  The snow is just one of the reasons that a trip to Japan is an amazing experience.  In a culture based strongly on etiquette and politeness I’ve found people there to be wonderful to be around and interact with.  The aforementioned qualities permeate every experience and can be in stark contrast to one’s everyday life in the very rushed, loud and brash East coast of the United States.  Japan is also amazingly clean, even in urban areas.  Driving along a highway or walking through a city you’ll be hard pressed to find even a cigarette butt in the road; a reflection of the etiquette and sense of community this country has.  Add to that absolutely delicious, consistently healthy and fresh food everywhere you go.  It really is a hard combination to beat.

  My first stop (after a 15 hour plane ride and a 5 ½ hour bus ride) was my only destination from last year, Nozawa Onsen in the northern part of Nagano.  I had spent ten days there last year and the experience was incredible and I was very much looking forward to another stay.

    Nozawa Onsen is a village located in a valley at the base of Mt. Kenashi-yama.  It’s quite traditional and while having many modern amenities it strongly retains its’ heritage in contrast to some of the westernized, commercial resorts in both Nagano and the northern island of Hokkaido.  If I recall correctly there is actually legislation in the town tightly controlling, and generally rejecting, outside development in an effort to maintain the character and traditions of the village.  The village is named for the many onsens, natural hot springs, that are found throughout the town. It’s a relatively quiet place with a subdued après scene although there are a few bars and several excellent restaurants.  Having seen more of the country this year and another resort in Nagano I think I can safely say that Nozawa Onsen is a truly unique experience.

  The mountain itself has a 1650 meter altitude and gets plenty of snow.  I hear there are days when conditions can get wild but in about eighteen days on that mountain over two seasons I’ve only seen one day that was stormy.  Generally speaking (and this is purely my amateur observation) the horseshoe shape of the mountain range tends to buffet away the wind while the snow clouds stall above the mountain and valley and dump heaps of snow.  I can honestly say I’ve never had a cold, windy day on the mountain; I’ve overdressed several times expecting this to be the day I’m cold but it never seems to happen.  I’ve seen the snow coming down thick and fast, making visibility a pipe dream but never sideways.  Most days were mild and temperate although this year I only saw the sun on about 2 days.  I’ll trade that every time for all the snow we got.

  The layout of the resort is a bit strange and can be daunting to those unfamiliar with it.  My first time there I wound up several times on long, flat traverses going nowhere fast.  A little exploring and experience however reveals some amazing runs and plenty of sidecountry/off-piste powder stashes.  People go off the back of the mountain as well, a great descent that leads right back around to the south end of the resort.  I’ll stop and emphasize here the dangers of off-piste experiences.  Never go alone and without proper equipment and training.  The good news is that there are plenty of easy to navigate, stable areas on the resort itself hidden for those who know where to look – again, take all precautions at all times.

  My stay in Nozawa Onsen was at Villa Nozawa for the second year in a row.  Spacious, clean, well staffed and professionally run.  I can’t recommend it highly enough; if you make the trip stay there or at one of the owners’ three other locations in town, another lodge and two cottages are available.  Visit www.NozawaHolidays.com for more info; I’ll be back there again next year.

  After ten days of riding and good times I headed southwest to Hakuba, my first visit there.  It was an easy bus ride of about two hours to Hakuba Station and I was greeted by a very different, and equally fun, experience.

  Whereas Nozawa Onsen is a very compact village Hakuba is much more like a suburb, spread out over a very large area.  The Hakuba valley is huge, hosting no less than seven different resorts to ride with another four just a short shuttle ride to the north.  My time riding was spent at Happo One (oh-nay) andHakuba 47 plus a day of backcountry hiking and riding at one of the northward areas called Norikura.

  If you’re more comfortable in a western style resort then Hakuba will fit the bill.  Very commercial with plenty of advertising literature and a very western/western European look to most of the valley from what I saw, albeit with a Japanese flavor.  There is a line of shuttle buses that continually loop the valley starting in the early evening for a modest 200 yen so getting around to different areas is quite easy and quick.  Food is available for a wide variety of palettes, from soba to hamburgers to pizza.  My stay was in a part of the valley called Echoland with many good restaurants and lively après spots.

  The terrain at the two commercial mountains I rode was steep, varied and had plenty of snow due to the consistent falls we had.  I didn’t know the ins and outs but I was able to poach plenty of powder stashes on the main face.  I didn’t go off-piste at these two resorts as I was led to understand that the ski patrol was quite strict there and losing my lift pass wasn’t something I wanted to happen.  From what I hear the northern resorts do open their backcountry gates with the usual onus and risk placed upon those who venture into that territory.

  Mid-week I took a day off and went southwest to Matsumoto City and Matsumoto Castle, the oldest castle of its’ type in Japan.  The city was a very cool little urban area, incredibly clean as I mentioned earlier, with the castle on the outskirts.  The castle was beautiful and fascinating both inside and out; be prepared to walk staircases as steep as ladders however.  Simply standing outside in the exquisitely sculpted grounds watching hawks land on the summit of the castle is an exercise in serenity.  Gorgeous overall and highly recommended.  I should also mention that on the walk to the castle I lost a piece of my tripod and found politely placed on a station on the sidewalk feet from where it must have fallen hours before.

  My last day riding was courtesy of Evergreen Outdoor Center located in the Wadano and Happo bases in Hakuba.  Evergreen has been operating since about 2000 in Nagano as has played an influential role in backcountry access and both winter and summer tours and education in Nagano.  They offer everything from avalanche training to kids’ lessons.  I was able to book a backcountry tour that was up in the air since I needed at least one other person but the staff at Evergreen had taken my name down and emailed me when someone else signed up for one of my requested days.

  We met at the Wadano base location the evening before to assess our gear and fill out paperwork and met our guide for the next day, a gentleman named Bill Glude who has been doing guiding and avalanche training out of Alaska and Japan for many years as well as many other places.

Photo by Bill Glude

  The next day we met in the early morning, spent some time getting familiar with transceiver, probe and shovel use then hopped in a van to the Norikura area.  This was followed by about two hours of snowshoeing up a peak and a single wonderful run down it (even though I struggled at times as this was my first time on terrain both that steep and that deep).  Bill was incredibly knowledgeable, encouraging and helpful and made the day as much of an education as a recreational lark which, in my opinion, is how it should be when it comes to backcountry riding.  It was an amazing day in waist deep snow and Bill and everyone at Evergreen Outdoor Center was thoroughly professional and pleasant.  If you come to Hakuba check them out for an experience you won’t forget.

  A day later I was on the plane back home and I am already missing this beautiful, wonderful country that I’ve come to love over the last two years.  Many people say it’s hard to explain to someone who hasn’t been there and I find that to be true; all I can say is that if you love to ride or ski and can make the trip happen you definitely should.  It’s not as expensive as it may seem and the experience is something you’ll never forget.  Take the time to learn some of the language, etiquette and customs and your trip will be much easier and you’ll find that the locals greatly appreciate the attempt, even if you fumble it badly.  For great snow, great people and great food Japan is hard to beat; put it on your list and make it happen, you won’t regret it.  And if you need someone to ride with, look me up.